Fraire, Manuela. “No Frills, No-Body, Nobody.” Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I, Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2011.
Fraire examines the way clothing (and, specifically, accessories) contributes to a process of self-construction through the work of “identification” (constructive) and “dismantlement” (deconstruction), which offers a useful theoretical frame with which to approach the analysis of clothing and material garments within Faulkner’s works.
Cook, Sylvia J. “Reading Clothes: Literary Dress in William Faulkner and Erskine Caldwell.” The Southern Literary Journal 46, 1: Fall 2013.
Cook analyzes Faulkner’s operation of clothing as both a signifying referent towards character identity expression as well as a reflection of individual character placements within social stratifications of race, class, and gender. Performing a close reading of several Faulkner texts, including TSAF, AA, LIA, AILD, and U, Cook places especial focus on how Faulkner’s characters socially contextualize and mediate garments through their own specific focuses. I anticipate contextualizing this against my own readings of how Faulkner’s characters utilize clothing to project, navigate, and de-/reconstruct particular identities.
Gradisek, Amanda R. “The eyes of the strange: Absalom, Absalom! and domestic modernism.” The Mississippi Quarterly 66:2, Spring 2013. 317-338.
Gradisek examines Judith and Rosa Coldfield in AA, using clothing and fashion as one particular lens with which to analyze how they challenge conceptions of the idyllic image of Southern womanhood and femininity. What’s particularly notable is the way the article distinguishes between differing versions of Southern womanhood as articulated within AA–specifically, that there are women and there are ladies, and they are each separate categories. Given Rosa’s initial description, framed within squares of lace and defined by her outmoded garb, as well as the later attention paid to Judith’s plain calico dress, this would provide an opportunity to see the ways in which fashion can illustrate individual expressions of identity not just within a binary (woman/man, black/white), but within the category itself. How does the fabric comment upon the type of woman it contains, and how does that woman express her own container in the choice of what to sew, what to wear, or how to wear it?
Williams, Michael. “Cross-dressing in Yoknapatawpha County.” The Mississippi Quarterly 47, 3: Summer 1994. p. 369-391.
Williams uses the specific frame of masquerade to discuss how female characters (who cross-dress) operate within Faulkner’s works, including LIA, U, and The Mansion, and how those acts of cross-dress emerge out of the paranoia and scrutiny contingent in maintaining binaries of race, gender, and class within the collapsing Southern world. While I am less interested in cross-dressing per se, the framing of such acts highlights the role of spectatorship, audience, and construction within fashion and dressing, which is significant within social identity definition and navigation.
McKee, Patricia. “Playing White Men in Light in August.” Producing American Races: Henry James, William Faulkner, Toni Morrisson. Durham: Duke University Press, 1999.
A specific examination of how race is necessarily constructed and performed within LIA along the lines of sight, the text reviews Joe Christmas and Joe Brown’s constructions of self both in how they are perceived by the community (through outfit, through facial expression, etc.) and how they return that line of sight. One point of interest for me is the emergence and placement of both Joes when they first arrive on the scene to work–sized, measured, and judged by the state of the clothes they wear and how they choose to wear it. (Specifically, Joe Christmas’ choice to show up to work in his own uniform rather than in the work overalls that all the other mill men are accustomed to and expect.) One of the frames I intend to examine is race, and Joe Christmas is a pivotal figure whose (failed) navigation of his identities also spills over into a kind of muddying expression of identity through the clothes he wears.
Faulkner, William. Light in August. Vintage International, 1990.
The uniforms of Joe Christmas, both in his early life as a school child as well as in his first emergence at the mill, are significant events I wish to explore. Further, Bobbie’s dress, although appearing somewhat briefly, will provide interesting context and pressure against the sartorial expressions of feminine identity that appear in other Faulkner texts as she lies outside of Southern ladyhood, but pursues performative femininity directly (as opposed to Drusilla, for example, who pursues its binary opposite).
—-. The Unvanquished. Vintage International, 1991.
It is my anticipation that I will center my primary focus on “Raid”, “Skirmish at Sartoris”, and possibly “An Odor of Verbena” given the significant role of Drusilla within those chapters. Primarily, I will be looking to Drusilla and her acts of dress as a means of exploring how clothing and gender operate and how the social environment then interprets significance out of that dress.
—-. Absalom, Absalom!. Vintage International, 1990.
In relation to gender, Rosa Coldfield and Judith Sutpen’s styles of dress will play key roles, especially given the ways in which they may represent abortive expressions of idealized Southern femininity. Further, Charles Bon is significant both in his role as a social good for display–a garment in his own right–as well as in his trendsetting patterns by way of fashion, and his larger significance to the narrative given his racial complications.
In conducting my initial research for this final project, my search terms were general in terms of source text, as well as broad regarding the parameters of my thematic concerns: gender, sexuality, class, fashion, clothing, dressing as well as occasional peeks into materialism and commercialism (where they intersected with Faulkner). JSTOR and Google Books were a boon, but CUNY OneSearch’s library (including full text access to books through the online database) was tremendously (and surprisingly) helpful as well. While I was more interested in seeing how fashion, clothing, and dress (both verb and noun) manifested latent social dynamics and codes within the text, one of the more interesting convergences I had with existing Faulkner scholarship had to do with larger concerns of commercialism and material culture around the time of Faulkner’s writing as well as within Faulkner’s own life. (While the intended focus of my long wiki, at this point, precludes the use of that information, it did lead me down a tangential rabbit hole for a few hours.) While I was hoping that the existing scholarship would help me to narrow my texts further, what I found was that several articles did a wider study across three or four of Faulkner’s works, analyzing individual characters and their fashion and knitting these into a singular argument about what Faulkner was aiming to achieve. What critical scholarship and writing has been done into the topic has seemed somewhat diffuse and sparse, undergirding a larger argument about gender, race, sexuality, performance, etc. or comparing it with other authors and works rather than serving as the focal point of the analysis itself.

